Friday, October 10, 2008

Fiber Facts: Silk

According to Chinese legend, silk culture began as long ago as 2640 B.C., when a Chinese Empress (variously called Si-Ling-Chi or Lei-tzu) figured out how to reel the silk from silkworms and weave it into fabric. The Chinese monopolized silk production for 3,000 years, before the technique spread to Korea, japan, India, and eventually Europe.

Silkworms generally feed on mulberry leaves, shown below, although wild silk is produced when silkworms feed on oak leaves.

They can produce up to a mile of filament in two or three days, which it uses to create a cocoon before transforming into a moth. In order to harvest silk, workers boil the cocoon, killing the larvae (poor baby moths!). The filaments are then reeled and then spun into yarn.

What makes silk so luxurious? Silk possesses many qualities not found in other fabrics:

  • It has a "dry hand," meaning that it feels dry to the touch

  • It is naturally shiny and lustrous

  • It tends to absorb moisture well

  • It is supple and drapes easily

  • It is very strong


Despite the fact that silk filaments are very fine, the fiber is long, and smooth (as shown below), which helps to give silk its softness, shine, and strength.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Bryher FO and a WIP

I know I haven’t posted forever, mostly because this semester has been super busy, and because I’m mainly working on some secret projects. But I did finish my Bryher scarf:

bryher 005

I used 2 skeins of Classic Elite Studio, which I got from a Craigslist purchase, and 1 skein of Rowan Kidsilk Night.

I like the somewhat sparkly effect, although I’m not sure if you can tell from the pictures.

bryher 001

I’m also *actually following someone else’s pattern*… sort of. I’m making the White Ribbed Cardigan from the Fall 2008 Vogue Knitting. If you make it, make sure to check the errata because there were quite a few errors. (Personally, I was shocked to see that practically every pattern in that issue had a ton of corrections… ).

Here’s what mine looks like so far:

drop collar 003

I’m using Malabrigo Chunky in Applewood, which I totally love knitting with. But I’ve already used up 2 skeins and I just set up the raglan increase rows. So this is going to be a costly sweater. I think I have 10 skeins total, so we’ll see how it goes. I’m thinking that I might make it cropped, with short sleeves, depending on how much yarn I have. I saw a WIP photo from Rhino’s Ravelry page and kind of love how it looks.

I’ve decided to use garter stitch instead of seed stitch for the body, basically because seed stitch is a pain in the ass in large quantities. So hopefully it will turn out!

Sunday, August 17, 2008

We're Moving! (URLs, that is)

We here at the Fiber Smarts blog are moving to a new web home.

Our new URL is http://knittyprofessors.blogspot.com. Please come and add our new feed to your reader.

This blogspot address will turn into a forwarding service for our readers.

Our new site isn't as pretty as it will be, but it's much more versatile, and we like it. We hope you will too.

-Katie and Jordynn, the knitty professors

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Teddy Bear Rollneck Sweater – Free!

This summer Grover received this lovely sweater as a gift.

Summer 2008 046

He liked it so much he asked for another sweater to wear. So I designed the Teddy Bear Rollneck Sweater:

rollneck

The Teddy Bear Rollneck Sweater is worked from the top down, using raglan shaping. No seaming required! The rollneck is simply formed by knitting everything in stockinette, with no ribbing or borders. This makes it a super easy and quick knit, because after all… it is for a teddy bear.

GAUGE:
18 sts & 26 rows over 4”

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
Approximately 4 inches long and 6 inches wide. Should fit any medium‐sized bear. (For reference, the bear in the picture measures about 8” tall when sitting).

MATERIALS:

Needles:

Size 8 (5mm) circular needles (16”)

AND EITHER an additional size 8 (5mm) circular

OR double-pointed needles in size 8 (5mm)

Paton’s Classic Wool Merino, approximately ¼ skein (or probably less). Any worsted weight yarn will do. Shown in 00229 (Natural Mix).

PATTERN NOTES:

The Teddy Bear Rollneck Sweater is worked from the top down, using raglan shaping. No seaming required! The rollneck is simply formed by knitting everything in stockinette, with no ribbing or borders. This makes it a super easy and quick knit.

PATTERN:

Using doublepointed needles or double circular method, cast on 36 stitches. Join to work in round. To shape the collar, knit in stockinette stitch for 9 rounds.

Begin raglan shaping:

Place markers: k3, pm, k12 (front), pm, k6, pm, k12 (back), pm, k to end of round.

Start raglan increases: *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb; rep from * to last marker, k to end of round.

Repeat raglan increases on every round for 8 rounds.

Separate sleeves: Place sleeve stitches on scrap yarn.

Join and work body in round for 2.5” or until desired length. Bind off.

Using doublepointed needles or double circular method, move sleeve sts from scrap yarn to needles and begin working in stockinette stitch. At the end of the first round, pick up 7 stitches under armpit. Continue working in stockinette stitch, only decrease two stitches on the following row and every other row for 3 times total , as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to last three stitches of round, ssk, k1.


Continue until sleeves measure 2” from armpit, or desired length. Bind off.

FINISHING:

Weave in ends. Block if desired. But seriously, are you really going to block something that goes on a stuffed animal?

rollneck4

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Who am I kidding.

I don't knit socks. I've bought all this sock yarn and I've never knitted socks. I knit lace, sweaters, mitts--why do I feel guilty because I hate knitting socks?

There are so many folks out there who like knitting socks, and who are good at it. I need to put down the dpns, and back away.

I'm going to make baby hats instead.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Recycled Plastic Bag Crochet Tote - free pattern recipe

[NOTE: Photographs will be added soon.]

There are a lot of patterns and instructions for recycled plastic bag crochet out there, I'm just adding to the fun with this post and pattern.

This is a bag that I assisted my friend C. in making: a market bag with long straps, made of grocery bags (in white and brown) and target bags (the red speckles).

plastic+crochet+carryall.jpg


There are two reasons to crochet with plastic bags that currently apply to me: (1) because a crafter is on a yarn-purchase moratorium because said crafter's HVAC needs to be replaced, and (2) because a crafter wishes to be eco-friendly in a really flipping fun way.

What you need for plastic bag crochet

1) plastic bags - way more than you think
2) crochet hook - larger the better (within reason)
3) scissors - for cutting plastic bags

Overview

Crocheting with plastic bag yarn is a two-step process. First, you have to make the yarn, then you have to crochet it into a project of your choice. Projects can be bags (a postmodern reconfiguration of a highly wasteful object into one that we dub "eco-friendly"), bath mats, doggie beds, or anything else.

MAKE THE YARN

The yarn-making process involves cutting the bags into long loops of plastic, then threading the loops together to make a two-ply plastic yarn.

Get those bags and a pair of scissors. Lay a bag as flat as possible, then fold the bags in half length-wise twice or three times, until you can cut across the width with one snip of your scissors. First cut across the top to remove the handles. Then, cut across the bottom to remove the base. You now have a plastic tube which you will cut into loops.

A note about gauge

Depending on the size crochet needle you have, and your desired gauge, you can make this yarn thicker or thinner.

Another factor is the heft of the bags you are recycling. Some grocery store bags are much thinning than bags from department stores.

Here's a very arbitrary gauge chart, with suggested needles. The inch measurement refers to the width you will cut your loops:

.5"/thick bag or 1"/thin: Light weight. Size K (6-6.50)
1"/thick or 1.5-2"/thin: Medium weight. Size P hook. (10-11.5)
2"/thick or 2.5-3"/thin: Heavy weight. Size Q hook. (15-16)

When pairing yarn to your hooks, remember the proper pairing depends on (1) your personal crochet tension, and (2) how tight you want the work to be. I would suggest that you work this material tightly, though, to make a stronger fabric.

To attach the loops to make yarn

I know this sounds confusing, but it's a lot easier when you have the yarn in front of you to work with.

Lay one loop on the ground, then lay the second loop on top of it, overlapping slightly. Reach through the top loop and grab the edge of the bottom loop, pulling it through, and then thread this end over the top loop and through itself, i.e., through the bottom loop. Pull tightly, and the loop-over connects the two loops. Continue attaching the loops like this until you have a large ball. (And I mean large--like 1 foot in diameter.)

CROCHET THE BAG

I've prepared a simple bag pattern recipe. This is a tote with handles, not straps like the bag in the picture above.

The pattern presumes that you know how to single crochet flat and in the round.

Work the bottom of the bag

Chain (ch) about 16 inches. This length will be the width of your bag, so chain as many as you want depending on the size bag you would like to make.

Crochet flat with single crochet (sc) for 4-5 inches. This is the depth of your bag. Again, make it as large as you would like.

You will work the sides of the bag in sc. You will now work in the round, around the four sides of the rectangle you just made. As you work in the round, the bag will grow taller. Work for as long as you would like, creating the height of a bag you will want to use--18"-20" is what I recommend.

Work bag handles

First, you need to decide how wide you would like the handles to be.
Second, you need to figure out how to center that width on the width of your bag's long sides.

When you work the handles, you will sc as normal until the start of the handle, then ch as many sts as there are sts for the handle width, then reconnect and sc to the other handle location, repeat handle chain sts, and work to end of round.

The next round you will work in sc including across the chain.
Work in sc until the handle height measures 2-4 inches. Any less than 2 inches may sacrifice handle strength. Wider than 4 inches makes the handles difficult to grab.

You are finished! Tie off, weave in ends using your crochet hook.

Here's a ridiculous schematic I drew. I should stick to CAD software.

Crochet Bag Sketch.jpg

Monday, August 4, 2008

Free Pattern: Flower Power & Hexagon Crochet Coasters

Stupid Easy.

Hexagon Coaster,
or Flower-Power Coaster

DSC_0001.JPG


Materials:
Some worstedish weight 100% cotton
Shown here: Euro Yarns Brushstrokes Cotton in color #103. One skein (120 yards) will make a set of
USH8/5.00mm Crochet Hook

Chain six sts.
Join to work in a circle.
Round 1: Work 2 sc into all six sts.
Round 2: *sc, 2 sc into next st*; rep **
to end of round.
Round 3: *sc, sc, 2 sc into next st*; rep ** to end of round.
Round 4: *sc 3 times, 2 sc into next st*; rep ** to end of round.
Round 5: *sc 4 times, 2 sc into next st*; rep ** to end of round.
[For Flower Power, skip to separate instructions below.]
Round 6: *sc 5 times, 2 sc into next st*; rep ** to end of round.
For Hexagon, you are done.

DSC_0004.JPG


For Flower-Power:
Round 6: *ch 5, sc into 3rd st*; rep ** to end of round.

DSC_0003.JPG


Fini

A Hint: As the work grows, you are working 2 sc into the middle of the 2 sc on the row below. You don't really have to count st, just watch the row below for the st with 2 sc in it, and put 2 sc there.

Work it bigger to make a trivet or potholder.

Note: I hereby grant permission to members of the Durham String Thing knitting group to make these for our Centerfest Show sale and for charity sales.