Knitting and Writing

I just came across this article published in Continuum: Journal of Media and Cultural Studies, which is a case study of the Yarn Harlot’s blog.

In particular, the author examines Stephanie Pearl McPhee’s own language, or what Katie and I would call her rhetoric: her effective use of language for specific purposes. In particular, McPhee uses language (and knitting) to build a community. Here’s a quote:

Yarn Harlot is an accomplished writer who not only has a facility with language but also manages to deploy images on her blog in ways that add to the humour. These features are an important characteristic of the blog and its appeal. It should not be read as a judgement on those blogs that are ‘less’ accomplished in their writing. But it is one of the reasons why this blog has become popular over many other blogs written on similar material. The writer of this blog is creative and a communicator who writes in ways that move people – to laugh and to participate. That these qualities have attracted enough people to create a critical mass means that this particular community is different (but not better or worse) from some of the smaller audiences of other knitting blogs.

This analysis seems to hold true, in part. But I know that the blogs I like best combine interesting writing with other elements, such as good photography, or projects that I might like to knit myself, such as top-down sweaters.

We’d like to know what you think. What are your favorite knitting blogs? Do you favor blogs for the quality of the writing, or for other factors?

Citation: Sal Humphreys, “Grassroots creativity and community in new media environments: Yarn Harlot and the 4000 knitting Olympians,” Continuum: Journal of Media and Cultural Studies 22.3 (2008): 419-433.

Note: You may need an institutional subscription to access the article!

Computer Nerd in Knits

My nephew, Nicholas, installing Linux on his new laptop.

Some Awesomeness for my Knit Library

I took all of my old knit mag issues up to "Fedex Office"--formerly Kinko's, a far cooler name--and had them nip off the spines of the magazines and bind them into books, each year's issues as one book.



I love how these feel in my hands! And so much easier to read when they lie flat. I haven't put them back on the bookshelf yet. I just want to leave them on the coffee table.

Things I learned from EZ in 12 minutes

I opened up Knitting Workshop the other day and started reading. In the first few minutes of simply reading the lessons--the hat and the yoke sweater--I learned so many seemingly obvious things that have escaped my knitting knowledge. It was humbling.

If you haven't already, you must buy this book. And read it. You don't have to knit the projects if they don't interest you.

But you can't presume that the wisdom of EZ and her compatriots has been passed down to every published designer out there. You need to arm yourself with this knitting knowledge.

Here are some tidbits, in no particularly order:

1. A k2, p2 rib trim is great, but you must decrease 10% from the stockinette body stitches before working the ribbing in order for it to "grab" nicely. (Or, if working bottom-up, increase 10% from the ribbing to the stockinette.) (page 15)

2. When working in the round, you must work short rows on the back of the neck so that the collar raises up in back. This many of us already knew. BUT when working these short rows, they must wrap around the neck on either side so that the extra rows actually are worked nearly 2/3 of the way around the neck. (page 47)

3. These aforementioned extra neck rows should be worked in k2, p2 rib, not in stockinette (and THEN switching to k2, p2 rib). This was very counter-intuitive to me at first (all that long ribbing in back, and short ribbing in front?) but actually (duh) it looks a lot better.

4. Don't use a blunt-tipped needle for weaving in ends. Blunt-tips are for seaming and grafting. Sharp-tips are for weaving--simply "skim through the back of the fabric" with it. (page 30)

5. Blocking is best done with a steam iron. YES. No more full-immersion blocking for me. What a waste of time. I blocked the husband's xmas sweater this year with steam only and it looks great. (page 31)

Now, these things might seem kind of complicated, and might not make much sense if you are a beginning knitter--which is my point. I think a lot of advanced knitters avoid Knitting Workshop because it seems like a knitting primer--which it is--and might not have much to offer an advanced knitter--which is totally wrong.

Go buy it, people. And just read it.

Free Tutorial: Bust Dart Shaping for Top-Down Sweaters

There are a number of bust dart tutorials out there, and many of them are wonderful. But it occurred to me that I might provide the instructions from my Celia Cruz pattern here. I find myself turning often the the worksheet I designed for that pattern. Most recently, I've been working on the Backward's Cable Pullover (only my cable is going in the front), and I'm just at the point of adding bust darts. So here's an adapted version of that worksheet, which you can use for any sweater where you'd like a better fit.

The Basics

There are two types of bust darts: vertical bust darts and horizontal bust darts. Vertical bust darts add width, and they start from the side seams (or close to the side seams). If you are working top down, you increase one stitch on each side, moving that stitch in towards the center of the sweater. You can see the vertical bust darts in the image below, which create a wedge shape on the side of the sweater.

Horizontal bust darts add length. For vertical bust darts, you will add short rows in the center of the sweater, working back and forth from side to side (usually beginning at or near the bust point).

For a fitted sweater, especially, both kinds of bust darts will help to ensure a good fit.

Sizing: Before you cast on for a sweater, measure your chest size at the narrowest part, above your bust.  Choose the pattern size closest to that measurement, not your actual bust measurement. This will ensure that the sweater fits properly in the arms/neck area. You will create more room in the bust area using bust darts.

 

The Math

To plan out your bust darts, you will need to do a few calculations. (Ask a friend to help you take good measurements, and write them down. Keep these on hand for next time).

Vertical Bust Shaping Worksheet

Fill in the numbers for the following:

A: Size of garment you are knitting (according to pattern measurements): _____ (i.e. 36” size)

B: Your actual bust measurement at fullest point: ____ (i.e. 39”)

C: Difference between A and B: ____ (i.e. 3”)

D: C times the # of stitches per inch in your gauge (i.e. 4.5 stitches): _____. This is the total number of stitches to add in width. (If it’s an odd number, add 1).

E: D divided by 2=____. This is the number of stitches to add on each side.

For example, say I’m knitting a size medium (36”) pattern but my actual bust measurement is 39”. I need to add 3 inches of width. Using my gauge, I calculated that this meant I needed to add 13.5 stitches. I add 14 just to make it an even number, or 7 on each side of my side seam markers. That means 7 rounds of increases. These vertical bust darts will move out on a diagonal from the side seam, to create a pleasing dart line. If you prefer, you can line up the increases above and below each bust point, or simply do them near the side seams.

Work the Vertical Bust Darts into the Sweater Pattern

Work the sweater pattern until it reaches just above the fullest part of your bust. (Try on your sweater frequently so that you don’t start the increases too low).

Begin vertical bust increases (to add width).

Refer to the worksheet, above.

First round: k1, m1, k to 1 sts before side marker, m1, k1.
Following round: k3, m1, k to 3sts before side marker, m1, k3
Round 3: k5, m1, k to 5 sts before side marker, m1, k5

Continue as above until you have added as many stitches as indicated in line E on your worksheet.

If you are working a stitch pattern other than stockinette, you can try to work the increases in somehow. You will decrease at the same point later on. For example, in Madame Wu, I added vertical bust darts by expanding and then decreasing the purl rows in the rib pattern:

Once you are finished with the vertical bust shaping, you will begin the short row shaping. (Or, you can skip to vertical bust decreases, below).

Horizontal Bust Shaping Worksheet (Short Row Shaping)

A: Take your vertical measurement from shoulder to waist:
1. Front: ____”
2. Back: ____”

B: Subtract A2 from A1: ____” (This is how much extra you should add on the front.)

C: Multiply B by the number of rows/inch in your gauge (i.e. 6 rows/inch): ____

D: Divide C by 2: ____ . Add one: _____ This is the number of rows to add (or the number of “wraps”).

E: Try on garment and place markers at apex of each breast (i.e. bust point). These will be your side wrap markers. Take off garment and make sure bust point markers are equally
spaced from side seams.

Count the number of stitches from the side seam to the bust point marker: ____ sts

F: Divide E by D: ___ This is the number of stitches to do between wraps (approximately)—you’ll round up or down.

For example, say I need to add 3” to the length of my sweater. If my gauge has 7 rows per inch, that means I need to add around 10 rows. If I have 25 stitches on either side of my bust point marker, then I’ll work approximately 2 stitches between wraps.

Work the Horizontal Bust Darts into the Sweater

If you have not done short row shaping before, you can look at KnittingHelp.com to see how to do a basic short row.

wrap and turn (W&T): Bring yarn to the front of the work, Sl the next st from the left hand needle, move your yarn to the back of the work, Sl the st back to the left hand needle.

Wrap 1: Work to left side wrap marker, wrap and turn (W&T), work back to right side wrap marker, W&T. This counts as one “wrap.”

Wrap 2: Work to F*1 sts before left SWM, W&T, work back to right SWM, W&T. (F is the number you filled in on the worksheet).

Wrap 3: Work to F*2 sts before left SWM, W&T, work back to right SWM, W&T

Continue as above, wrapping stitches in multiples of F (see your worksheet).

When you have completed 2/3rds of your wraps, simultaneously start decreasing to reverse the vertical bust darts (see below). Continue until all stitches have been wrapped.

Do Vertical Bust Decreases:

Here you will do the reverse of what you did above for the vertical bust darts. Here is an example:

Round 1: k13, ssk, k to 13 sts before side marker, k2tog, k13

Round 2: k11, ssk, k to 11 sts before side marker, k2tog, k11

Round 3: k9, ssk, k to 9 sts before side marker, k2tog, k9

Continue as above until you have finished decreasing to match the number of vertical bust increases you did before.

A few notes:

For patterns that include guidelines for bust darts, check out my Madame Wu and Celia Cruz patterns.

If you are knitting in the round from the bottom up, you would simply reverse the directions here, first increasing for the vertical bust darts from the side seam or so inwards, then beginning short row wraps (horizontal bust darts), and finally ending with vertical bust decreases moving from inwards out.

Inspired Knitting

Katie and I became friends while watching the TV show Bones. We both totally identify with the somewhat nerdy lead character, played by Emily Deschanel. So I was pumped to find this series of patterns, designed by Liz Abinante. (I can’t believe I just notice these now—these patterns have 1000s of hearts and tons of projects on Ravelry)!!!

First, there’s “Temperance” (named after Temperance Brennan, or “Bones”):

Next, there’s “Traveling Woman,” inspired by the character Angela:

And last, there’s “Saroyan,” inspired by Dr. Camille Saroyan:

These projects are a great testament to the strong female characters on the show. (We highly recommend it, in case you haven’t seen it!) Best of all, these patterns are all free!

Free Pattern: Grewyacke Mittens

After designing my Grewyacke Cowl, I wanted mittens to match, so I whipped up these quick, chunky mittens.

The bulky yarn (I used Cascade 128 held double-stranded) protects you from the elements. I’m home in Canada for the holidays, and these really do the trick. Thanks to our new stray (who needs a name!) for modeling with me. (My parents live on a farm, where there’s a large harem of kitties to keep the mice at bay).

Materials:

Yarn: Approximately 150 yards of bulky weight yarn, held double-stranded. Shown in Cascade 128 (100% wool; 100g/128yd per skein) in natural (#8010).

Other options: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, Rowan Big Wool, or Brown Sheep Burly Spun (held single-stranded)

Needles: Size 13 circular needles (two pairs) (for double circular method)

Size 11 circular needles (two pairs) (for double circular method)

OR DPNs in sizes 11 and 13 if you prefer.

Notions: stitch markers (3), yarn needle for weaving in ends, cat for modeling photos (optional)

Gauge: 3t/inch in Greywacke stitch pattern.

Sizing: S/M [M/L]

Directions:

Cuff:

Using size 11 needles, cast on 15[18] sts. Distribute across two sets of size 11 circulars for double circular methods (or DPNs if you prefer).

Begin working in k1, p2 rib for 11 rounds.

On the next round, expand 3 stitches as follows: kfb, p2, *k1, p2: rep from * to last 3 stitches, k1, pfb, kfb. 18[21] sts total.

Begin pattern as follows:

Round 1: p1, *k1, p2; repeat from * to 2sts before end of round; end k1, p1.

Round 2: set up thumb gusset shaping: k1, pm, *knit to 2 sts before end of round, pm, k2.

Round 3: Begin thumb gusset increases: kfb, sm, *p2, k1; rep from * to marker, sm, pfb, kfb.

Note: The thumb gusset stitches may not really follow the Greywacke stitch pattern—I tried my best. Once you separate the thumb, you can resume the Greywacke pattern. No one will notice if it's a bit wonky).

Round 4: Knit.

Round 5: k1, pfb, sm, p1, *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round (you'll end with a k1, p1); sm, kfb, p1, kfb, p1.

Round 6: Knit.

For size S/M: Knit to end of round, then place 9 thumb stitches onto scrap yarn. Move to Work Hand, below.

For size L/XL:

Do one more increase row, as follows: p1, k1, pfb, sm, *k1, p2; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, end k1, p1; sm; end pfb, k1, p2, k1, p1, kfb.

Knit one round, then place 12 thumb stitches onto scrap yarn.

Work Hand:

For all sizes: Work hand portion in Grewyacke pattern until mittens just covers the fingertips.

Size S/M will begin on Round 1; size L/XL will begin on round 3.

Round 1: *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round

Round 2, 4, and 6: knit

Round 3: p2, *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round; end k1.

Round 5: p1, *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round (you'll end with a k1, p1).

Try to finish on an odd-numbered row.

On the next even round, ktog across row (size L/XL will have on extra stitch).

Then, p2tog across row (size S/M will have one extra stitch).

Cut yarn, then place on a darning needle and draw end through the remaining live stitches. Push needle through to the wrong side of the mitten and weave in the end.

Thumb:

Place thumb stitches onto two size 11 circular needles (or DPNs, if desired).

Begin working in Grewyacke pattern (try to figure out the best row to start on, or just restart the pattern—it's no big deal), as follows:

Round 1: *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round

Round 2, 4, and 6: knit

Round 3: p2, *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round; end k1.

Round 5: p1, *k1, p2; repeat from * to end of round (you'll end with a k1, p1).

Continue until it is just long enough to cover the thumb. Try to end on an odd-numbered round.

Next round: k2tog across round (you may have one lonely stitch left over).

On the following round, p2tog across round (you may have one lonely stitch left over).

Cut yarn, then place on a darning needle and draw end through the remaining live stitches. Push needle through to the wrong side of the mitten and weave in the end.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends. To fluff up the yarn, spritz the mittens with water and toss in the dryer for a few minutes.

 

Happy holidays everyone!